The stretch between Altıparmak and Heykel is one of the most painful areas of this city. To understand Altıparmak, all you need to do is look at old photographs of Bursa. The overpass awkwardly placed in front of the police station and the disruption it caused to the area’s layout, along with Zafer Plaza’s “very original!” glass pyramid, are unsettling sights. The latest addition to this visual chaos is the arrangement of Balibey Han, located at the opposite corner of Çakırhamam. This three-story han, built in the 15th century by Bali Bey, son of Niğbolu Sancak Bey Hamza Bey, was shaped by the trade culture surrounding the nearby Covered Bazaar. 

The han suffered from earthquakes and was used as a shelter in the 1950s. In the 1970s, it functioned as a coffeehouse, and in 1984, as part of a fortress restoration, it was cleaned up and reorganized. Under the arches, charming tables and umbrellas were placed, creating a cozy and elegant atmosphere. At least back then, it had a sense of history, unlike the construction (not restoration!) that has now turned it into a chaotic bazaar, cluttered with cheap plastic coverings and unsightly signage.

I once toured this place upon the invitation of a contractor claiming to be overseeing its restoration. The direction it was heading was obvious even then! No aesthetics, no effort to research and preserve the underground corridors that should have remained open—or at the very least explained—no attempt to weave its story into history. Just the race to win contracts, incompetent inspectors, and short-sighted investors. A heritage left behind by the ancestors, with the Monuments Protection Board standing right next to it! Meanwhile, we exhaust ourselves trying to convince tourism officials who barely lift a finger. If the spirit of the city cannot be reflected, then these mixed, haphazard urban touches will only expose the walls of Balibey Han that have been layered over for years. And of course, right beyond that—looming before us—the towering TOKİ buildings. 

This text was originally meant to gather some information about a historical artifact located near the stairs descending next to Kitap Evi. But these are days of trials, days of patience. "O Patience, O Salvation."